Tour de Portugal Norte: Part 1: Tomar & the Douro Valley

With the sand quickly slipping through the glass of our time here as expats in Portugal, we realized that we were due for one last big adventure around the beautiful country to see some of the sights we really have been hoping to at least brush up against before heading back to the US.  During the first week of May we set off on a road trip North to see as much as we could in a few days. 

Our first stop was the Convento de Cristo, only a couple of hours north in the city of Tomar.  As has been our experience, in a lot of historical Portuguese buildings, it was beautiful, intricate, and worth a look.  Afterward, we headed further north to Peso da Regua, a little city along the Douro river, and the gateway to the "most beautiful road in the world." I would agree that the N-222 which runs 27 km East from Regua, is a darn good sight, and worth a trip if you can manage it... but it's hard to live up to a billing like that (although admittedly, we only drove it for the first 18km to Pinhao, when we took a winding journey up to the North, and on to our destination for the next few days: The Peneda-Geres National Park

Our journey up the most beautiful road begins...

The world's smallest barber shop?

Bridges over the Douro in Peso da Regua

Spring Break in Scotland (& a little extra)

Jyl's Scottish pride runs deep.  Deep enough for us to think it would be a worthwhile endeavor to bring our 6 week-old wee lad on his first airplane trips from the mild climes of Portugal into the still quite chilly spring air of the North country.  Looking back, we may have bit off more than we expected to chew, but not more than we could, and it was well worth it to visit such a bountifully beautiful country.

We started our trip in Edinburgh, where Jyl had lived for near to a year back in her formative college days.  Enough had changed since then that we spent a good amount of our time wandering through the city trying to piece together the what was what and the where was where, which suited us just fine with a little Finnegan that was still adjusting to life on the outside (He reports that Scotland is nothing like the womb, but he liked the smells and sounds okay).  We spent a good amount of our days in cafes, pubs, and restaurants trying to feed and comfort our little man who just happened to contract his first cold (via daddy via kids at school) on the day we arrived.  Although this might have slowed down our sight-seeing, it was a great pace for a spring break, and didn't stop us from taking in some of the best things that the old city had to offer (e.g. Cask beer, blood pudding, Worlds End Close, Grey Friar's Bobby, and of course... the pipes).  Wandering into a folk music record shop, I was pleased to see that friends from a world away were represented.  

After a few days we decided to get out into the country.  We took the long way up to Inverness, renting a car and driving some of the slower roads (on the wrong side, of course) to take in the sights.  Finn has an acute dislike of his car seat, which made the trip exceptionally long.  Even so, we did our best to take in what we could of the sweeping mountain valleys covered in cold heather, the battlegrounds of Bannockburn (we offered Finn up to Robert the Bruce, but he graciously said we could keep him), and the long dark shore of Loch Ness (particularly dark by the time we got there).

We explored Inverness for a couple of days; a lovely town with a river running through it.  I could live there.  On our way back to Edinburgh we stopped at a fun little farm museum thingee, and Jyl got to see a Hairy Coo.  Finally, we stayed a night in a little distillery town, and I got to try a nip of 10 year single-malt whiskey (fantastic) and eat a full plate of Neeps and Tatties.  Clearly our journey was complete.

Or so we thought.  We flew out of Edinburgh on the 8th of April... right into a French Air Traffic Control strike.  Our connecting flight from Amsterdam was delayed... and then again... until finally we were loaded on the plane.  And then told it was cancelled.  This would have been fine except Finn was losing patience as midnight approached.  We filed into a 200+ person line to get hotel vouchers after being told that we couldn't retrieve our bags because the bag handlers had gone home (isn't this one of the biggest airports in the world?)  Finn came through for us... a kind flight attendant saw/heard Finn and pulled us to the front of the line so that we could get a hotel before the night was over.  When the dust settled, we ended up spending the next day relaxing in the hotel, retrieving our bags, and then taking a little jaunt into Amsterdam.  Although our trip was unexpectedly extended, now Finn can say that he has been to another country (complete with a stroll through the Red Light District). 

Great Scot, that was a good trip! 

A heart-stopping typical Scottish breakfast. 

Brew dog is like a taste of home, and seems to be taking over Europe, quickly.  This was a nice Cascadian Dark. 

I like your style, Scotland.

Oh no!

The location (but not same owners) of the bar where Jyl used to work.  An employee remembered when it used to be "Barcelona."

Good to see a friend. 

Gorgeous city. 

Jyl's former apartment.

We offer you our firstborn!  Ok, not really. 

Not too many infant sized stocks, I guess.

Wow. 

Inverness = lovely. 

Neeps & Tatties!

Where ar ye, Nessie?

 

Can't imagine a better place to breastfeed.

Hairy Coos!

Amsterdam streets!

Winter Lisbon Adventure

We had a lovely pre-baby trip wandering about Lisbon in late January.  It's definitely a city that rewards poking about in an aimless fashion.  I don't know if I've said it this bluntly, but if you haven't visited Lisbon, you really should.  It has such an interesting blend of new and old (even downright decrepit... but in a charming way).  There is always something to see, hear, and taste, that is worth your time.  It is certainly changing as more and more tourists and expats figure this out, which brings with it your typical downsides, but it doesn't change the fact that it's a worthwile visit.  

Anywho, on this particular day we turned an aimless day into a purposeful evening by first making our way to a really quality little craft beer festival (Patio de Cerveja).  The variety and availability of craft beer has increased exponentially since we arrived less than 2 years ago. 

We finished the night with some fantastic fado.. if it's quality performers you are looking for (and can manage the expensive dinner that goes with it) Clube de Fado is the place.  We were seated immediately next to the performers.  I mean I could feel their breath.  As we were leaving (around midnight... we aren't the party kids we once were), Mariza, one of the most famous Fado performers in the world, was in the lounge... waiting to go on a bit later.  Doh!  Even so: still fantastic.

Rainbow into Sao Jorge Castle.  Per capita rainbows are very high here in Lisbon.