Saturday, June 20, 2015

Monsanto: our LAST Portuguese road trip!

For our last trip across the lovely Portuguese landscape, we chose to go to Monsanto, voted "the most Portuguese" village in the country in the 1930s.  Located about 3 hours Northeast of Cascais, we rolled across a quiet landscape filled with oaks and olive trees as the light started to fade.  The town sits among large granite boulders (with some houses build directly into them) on the side and top of a large hill (or wee mountain), and so as we zigged and zagged up to it, we were able to take in the beautiful countryside as it was bathed in the warm last light of day.  The view from our very welcoming Pousada would have been worth the trip alone.  We stayed at Casa Pires Mateus; I would definitely recommend it, if for nothing more than the lovely owners who showered Finn with kisses, and basically would whisk him away while we ate breakfast each morning. 

The only low point of the trip came the first night.  In a rush to get there, we skipped eating dinner, figuring we would have no problem dining late... after all, the Portuguese generally seem to start dinner around 9pm, and this IS the most Portuguese of villages.  Wrong-o.  Sure, the people might eat late, but the restaurants didn't serve past 9.  We had to stuff our bellies with fruit and cold savory pastries.  So... let that be a lesson to those looking to come here on the late side! 

Saturday was a lovely day.  We hiked to the castle at the top of the village, enjoyed a long leisurely lunch, took a late afternoon hike along an old roman road, and then had a delicious dinner at Granitos & Petiscos.  After dinner we made our way to a very cute little tavern/cafe that we noticed earlier had a local craft beer, as well as live music.  The owners were young, hip organic farmers & horse trainers that were clearly trying to do good new things in a sleepy part of the country.  At some point in talking to them Jyl offered me up as a sacrificial member of the live music duo.  And so it happened that I spent 3 hours entertaining Spanish tourists playing good old music with a Scotsman who was rocking the dobro and a Portuguese guitar player with a big smile while drinking great wine and barely noticing the crowd.  It was without a doubt one of the better moments of my time in Portugal, and in travelling in general.  What a great way to cap our last excursion!
View from one side of Casa Pires Mateus


Up to the castle




Relaxing in the castle... it was really hot!

I could've been stationed in this castle.  A lovely view. 
Wasted.  (just kidding... it's non-alcoholic).
Inside the church.



Walking the roman road

Monsanto from below


Note the house built around the huge boulder


View from Petiscos & Granitos

Monsanto skyline at dusk

Moon rises over Monsanto = magical

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